The Short Answer: We recommend WickWërks chainrings be installed and used only in the specifically engineered sets.
Our rings are designed with a patented BRIDGE Shift Technology and made to work as a set — the large and small rings made so ramps and teeth are properly positioned by each other to give the best shifting. It makes fast, stable shifting, but unfortunately it is not so flexible to mix and match sprocket sizes.
This is our most asked question. So, a more complete explanation is given here.
Finally, Mixing WickWërks chainrings with other brands is also not recommended. It’s not a possessive thing, it’s because the tooth positions (clocking) can be different with each manufacturer, and thereby not allow the chain and sprocket teeth to mesh properly when shifting. In most cases shifting suffers — is not as crisp or fast as it would be with matched chainrings.

Front derailleur stops are the little screws (usually) on the bicycle front derailleur that limit the travel as it moves back and forth to accomplish a shift. Front derailleur adjustment has been described as a “black art”, so don’t be disappointed if it takes a few tries to get it right.  For more information, please see Front Derailleur Adjustment on our support site.

Small ring side first:

• Shift the front derailleur to the small chainring position, then loosen or disconnect the front derailleur cable.
• Shift the rear derailleur to the biggest cog.
• Set the front derailleur “LOW” stop so that the chain just barely does NOT touch the derailleur cage on the inside surface when pedaling.
• Adjust the shift cable (tighten it) so it is just barely not tight in this position.

Large ring side second:

• Shift the rear derailleur to one of the middle cogs.
• Adjust the outer front derailleur stop — for the large chainring — till the chain shifts up nicely but does not project over.
• Adjust it to allow some (just a little) overshoot (meaning when you push the shifter lever all the way, the derailleur will move out to the stop, and when you relax force on the shifter lever the derailleur will come back slightly.  That allows positive shift pressure on the chain against the ring when shifting, but as the shift completes, the derailleur comes back to proper chain line setting.
• Be careful that you don’t allow too much overshoot because the chain may then shift right off the outside of the ring onto your pedal — which is obviously not acceptable.
• Cable tension must be balanced so there is sufficient slack at the low side, and the cable tension is right to hold the derailleur cage positioned properly for the big ring.

WickWerks makes a 38/24, a 36/22 and a 33/22 chainring set designed for a 3x to 2×9 or 2×10 conversion.  The 2 new rings replace the 2 smaller rings of a typical mountain bike triple.  The large ring is replaced by either a bash guard or some finger tip ends that cover the open spot on the outside where the large ring was.

Quick Instruction Overview:

1.  With the new rings mounted, install the crank and check for frame clearance.  Most frames are just fine, but depending on specific frame geometry, one of the 2.5mm spacers from the non-drive side of the BB can be moved to the drive side so the new 36t, or 38t ring will move outward, away from the frame, to clear the chainstay.
2. Next, shorten the chain.  (We recommend a new chain with a new set of rings.)  Set it properly for big ring to big cassette cog and the rest will be okay.  The long cage rear derailleur designed for the mountain triple works fine.  If building a new bike, you might choose use a medium length rear derailleur, but it’s not necessary.
3. To complete the change, adjust the front derailleur.  It will need to be moved vertically for position to the new rings, then adjust the stops to lock-out the unused stroke where the big ring used to be.  Some cable adjustment will also need to be done, and the conversion to 2x is complete.

The process is pretty simple.

• Start by finding and acquiring the right 1X chainring. For help in choosing, read this article about Choosing the Right Gears.
• Make sure you get a chainring with the correct Bolt Pattern and BCD for your crank.
• Remove the shifting chainrings from your existing crank.
• Mount the new chainring (note proper orientation).
• Set chain length as suggested here. (We recommend a new chain with new chainrings.)
• Pedal the bike on the stand and assure proper function, and you’re ready to go.

As a side note, if you’ll be riding the bike in dirty or rough conditions, you may wish to consider a chain guide. Though great names like “Drop Stop” have been coined, the truth is more chain drops happen with 1X than with shifting gears because in rough or dirty conditions, the chain is not always guided perfectly onto the chainring, and if the chain is not on the ring, there is no way for the ring to keep it from falling off — no matter what brand of 1X ring you choose. Interestingly, shifting bikes all have a chain guide — aka the front derailleur — that keeps the chain moving onto the gears directionally correct, even over rough terrain and when mud, dirt or weeds are problematic. Just something to think about.

Enjoy the new 1X riding!

This issue is usually fixed very simply with some adjustments.

First, however, let’s look at the bike setup and be sure it is correct:

1. Bottom Bracket Installation:  Make sure spacers are set according to the crank manufacturer directives — usually none or at most one, 2.5mm spacer on the drive side.
2. Front Derailleur Position:  See Front Derailleur Adjustment on our support site.
3. Chain Length and Tension:  It doesn’t directly effect the shift when pedaling, but when coasting or pedaling backward, it with contribute in keeping the chain on the ring.

Once the setup is correct, we can look at adjustments.

Front derailleur adjustment is really important with these chainrings.  It should be just a couple mm above the tallest teeth on the chainring for clearance.  Rotational position around the seat tube (Toe-in / Toe-out) makes a big difference too.  We’ve found in CX, in the rough, the difference between the chain staying on perfectly and some weird issues with chains walking off (inside or outside) is front derailleur position.  Please read the set-up directions at https://wickwerks.com/support/maxperformance  Note the vertical and toe-in / toe-out instruction.

Make sure the derailleur motion stops are also set correctly.  Again, see Front Derailleur Adjustment.  Extra space between the derailleur cage outside surfaces and the chain should be minimized.

The chain should be as short as practical given the Big/Big condition.  The tension if your rear derailleur allows you to set it, should be as tight as practical.

Chains can make a difference.  Shimano and KMC higher-end chains tend to be just a little more flexible side-to-side than the stiffer chains like SRAM. If you’re using SRAM, you might try KMC.  Likewise, if you’re using Shimano, you might try SRAM.  Different bikes, with different geometries and various derailleurs will act differently.

Check the rest of the drive system for any potential issues — like too much drag in the system — perhaps with the rear derailleur pulleys?

Finally, read the section on cross chaining at WickWerks Support Site These rings should function fine when cross chaining, but as a general rule, it’s not a great idea — especially if your chain has a habit of trouble.

We always recommend a new chain with new chainrings.

The chain and the chainrings work together — and wear together.  When new rings are paired with a used chain, the used chain — even if it is not worn out — will accelerate wear on the new chainrings.  So, even if the old chain is not worn too much, it’s best to start with both items new.

Good question.  Maybe.

Replace the Chainring Bolts:

• If there is any damage on the threads or on the wrench locations.
• If excessive torque was required to loosen the bolts.
• If any corrosion or rust or other malady is visible.
• If the nut and bolt feel gritty when you are tightening them together.
• If the chainring bolts appear to be too short or too long for the application.

Basically, replace the chainring bolts if there is anything that would keep the bolt from functioning perfectly now, or in the future when they need to come off.  Chainring bolts are relatively cheap insurance against aggravation and frustration later.  WickWerks carries several types.

You may also need to replace bolts if you are changing from a double to a single front chainring or something like that.  We carry bolts for most common applications.

Reuse the Chainring Bolts:

• If they look clean and “new-ish”.
• If there is no visible damage, corrosion or rust.

Chainring bolts made of Steel or Titanium will typically last longer and can be re-used more times than aluminum bolts.  They also handle torque better.  Aluminum bolts are lighter and come in more colors.  If the bolts look good and function smoothly, there is usually no reason to replace them.

When reusing bolts, clean them well so there is no grit or other debris that may hinder proper tightening.