YES !! — We call them Z-Rings. They are available as Mountain Bike Z-Rings (made in various sizes), and as Cyclocross Z-Rings (also made in various sizes and mounting configurations). Check out the product pages for details.
Secondly, small rings from the shifting rings sets are often used in single front chainring applications like single speeds. They work, but we recommend looking at Z-Rings first.
WickWerks technology is ever expanding. First, the World’s Fastest Shifting Chainrings using Bridge Shift Technology; Now Z-Rings, with a technology we call “Narrow-Wide Enhanced”.
Oh, and Z-Rings are Made in the USA.
Great question. Yes, and No.
Yes, we ship direct to Europe.
No, we do not have a current retail source for our Full Line of products in Europe. However, some of our products are available through Sport and Bikes in Denmark, and they do ship. Contact them, they’re a great bunch to work with. Also, we are actively looking for a sales partner, so if you know someone that handles Europe, please connect us.
In the meantime, if you live in Europe and want to ride WickWerks chainrings, please Contact Us directly, and we’ll get you going.
Yes, we sell to bike shops. Our programs are “Customer Direct” (via this web site) and “Dealer Direct” (wholesale pricing).
If you are a bicycle retailer, please create an account (free), then complete our Dealer Application. Once dealer status has been established, when you log-in to this site, your shopping cart will show wholesale prices.
In addition to our normal prices — MSRP / Pro Deal / Bicycle Dealer prices — we also offer an additional discount when 3 or more sets (any combination of cranks and chainrings) are ordered at once. The wholesale prices and additional quantity discounts automatically appear in the shopping cart.
Bike Shop Employees
If you are an employee of a bike shop that is not a registered dealer, we have a program to get you up and running. Please Contact Us directly for verification and to initiate that process.
For most countries, No. Unfortunately, (perhaps fortunately for you) we have not yet been able to convince ourselves to raise prices enough to support the financial load of distributors. We understand the value of distribution and the ease of acquisition through bike shops and such, but we want our customers to get the best value for their money, so our margins don’t support distribution channel requirements.
In a nutshell, there is a cost associated with marketing products through distributors like QBP, BTI and others. In order for these distributors to exist, they must mark up the product from wholesale to the dealer price. The dealers must mark it up again when selling it to the end customer. It’s not a bad system, and each entity in the chain has a purpose, but each must also make a profit (or they could not exist), which means the cost to the end customer is increased with each link in the chain.
What does that mean to you?
- Our lower prices mean you get more for the money. WickWerks only produces high-end chainrings. Check out our prices compared to other high-end rings and you’ll see the difference. In some cases you can buy 3 WickWerks chainring sets for the price of one of theirs – even though WickWerks rings perform better.
- WickWerks products are not as easily acquired. Dealers must have an account at WickWerks.com rather than purchasing from their favorite distributors. Unfortunately that means more work for dealers — which we don’t like, but it means lower prices for the end customer, and better service to everyone.
- It means WickWerks products are available directly to customers (via this web site). If your favorite bike shop does not carry WickWerks chainrings, you can get them here.
- Because WickWerks handles dealer sales directly, dealers have one source for support. That means the buck stops here and all things are handled directly by the company that wants to really make a difference with it’s own products.
Countries outside of North America
The context of distribution takes on a different flavor for international sales. The high cost of shipping, the long delays in delivery (through customs and other delays) make distribution more favorable for our international customers. International distributors can provide product to customers in a timely manner without the high cost of international shipping. WickWerks does work with distributors overseas where we can ship in larger quantities and slower speeds — to reduce cost ultimately for the end customer.
So, it’s a mixed bag. There are advantages and disadvantages to both you and us in using distributors. If you have specific questions about distributors, or if you are a distributor and have a good case for integrating our products with your services, please Contact Us. We would love to hear from you.
Yes, we appreciate riders and groups of riders that want to ride our products. In the shopping cart, when the quantity of chainrings or cranks (all the various versions) exceed 3, you will automatically receive a 10% discount.
Invite your friends or get your team together and take advantage of this offer. All items must be purchased and shipped together. That’s about the only restriction. In return, we would love to see you post (on your favorite social media outlet) about your experience with the rings. Enjoy the ride.
The Short Answer: We recommend WickWërks chainrings be installed and used only in the specifically engineered sets.
Our rings are designed with a patented BRIDGE Shift Technology and made to work as a set — the large and small rings made so ramps and teeth are properly positioned by each other to give the best shifting. It makes fast, stable shifting, but unfortunately it is not so flexible to mix and match sprocket sizes.
Finally, Mixing WickWërks chainrings with other brands is also not recommended. It’s not a possessive thing, it’s because the tooth positions (clocking) can be different with each manufacturer, and thereby not allow the chain and sprocket teeth to mesh properly when shifting. In most cases shifting suffers — is not as crisp or fast as it would be with matched chainrings.
Front derailleur stops are the little screws (usually) on the bicycle front derailleur that limit the travel as it moves back and forth to accomplish a shift.
Small ring side first:
– Shift the front derailleur to the small chainring position, then loosen or disconnect the front derailleur cable.
– Shift the rear derailleur to the biggest cog.
– Set the front derailleur “LOW” stop so that the chain just barely does NOT touch the derailleur cage on the inside surface when pedaling.
– Adjust the shift cable (tighten it) so it is just barely not tight in this position.
Large ring side second:
– Shift the rear derailleur to one of the middle cogs.
– Adjust the outer front derailleur stop — for the large chainring — till the chain shifts up nicely but does not project over.
– Adjust it to allow some (just a little) overshoot (meaning when you push the shifter lever all the way, the derailleur will move out to the stop, and when you relax force on the shifter lever the derailleur will come back slightly. That allows positive shift pressure on the chain against the ring when shifting, but as the shift completes, the derailleur comes back to proper chain line setting.
– Be careful that you don’t allow too much overshoot because the chain may then shift right off the outside of the ring onto your pedal — which is obviously not acceptable.
– Cable tension must be balanced so there is sufficient slack at the low side, and the cable tension is right to hold the derailleur cage positioned properly for the big ring.
Front derailleur adjustment has been described as a “black art”, so don’t be disappointed if it takes a few tries to get it right. For more information, please see Front Derailleur Adjustment on our support site.
WickWerks makes a 38/24, a 36/22 and a 33/22 chainring set designed for a 3x to 2×9 or 2×10 conversion. The 2 new rings replace the 2 smaller rings of a typical mountain bike triple. The large ring is replaced by either a bash guard or some finger tip ends that cover the open spot on the outside where the large ring was.
Quick Instruction Overview:
1) With the new rings mounted, install the crank and check for frame clearance. Most frames are just fine, but depending on specific frame geometry, one of the 2.5mm spacers from the non-drive side of the BB can be moved to the drive side so the new 36t, or 38t ring will move outward, away from the frame, to clear the chainstay.
2) Next, shorten the chain. (We recommend a new chain with a new set of rings.) Set it properly for big ring to big cassette cog and the rest will be okay. The long cage rear derailleur designed for the mountain triple works fine. If building a new bike, you might choose use a medium length rear derailleur, but it’s not necessary.
3) To complete the change, adjust the front derailleur. It will need to be moved vertically for position to the new rings, then adjust the stops to lock-out the unused stroke where the big ring used to be. Some cable adjustment will also need to be done, and the conversion to 2x is complete.
The process is pretty simple.
– Start by finding and acquiring the right 1X chainring. For help in choosing, read this article about Choosing the Right Gears.
– Make sure you get a chainring with the correct Bolt Pattern and BCD for your crank.
– Remove the shifting chainrings from your existing crank.
– Mount the new chainring (note proper orientation).
– Set chain length as suggested here. (We recommend a new chain with new chainrings.)
– Pedal the bike on the stand and assure proper function, and you’re ready to go.
As a side note, if you’ll be riding the bike in dirty or rough conditions, you may wish to consider a chain guide. Though great names like “Drop Stop” have been coined, the truth is more chain drops happen with 1X than with shifting gears because in rough or dirty conditions, the chain is not always guided perfectly onto the chainring, and if the chain is not on the ring, there is no way for the ring to keep it from falling off — no matter what brand of 1X ring you choose. Interestingly, shifting bikes all have a chain guide — aka the front derailleur — that keeps the chain moving onto the gears directionally correct, even over rough terrain and when mud, dirt or weeds are problematic. Just something to think about.
Enjoy the new 1X riding!
This issue is usually fixed very simply with some adjustments.
First, however, let’s look at the bike setup and be sure it is correct:
- Bottom Bracket Installation: Make sure spacers are set according to the crank manufacturer directives — usually none or at most one, 2.5mm spacer on the drive side.
- Front Derailleur Position: See Front Derailleur Adjustment on our support site.
- Chain Length and Tension: It doesn’t directly effect the shift when pedaling, but when coasting or pedaling backward, it with contribute in keeping the chain on the ring.
Once the setup is correct, we can look at adjustments.
Front derailleur adjustment is really important with these chainrings. It should be just a couple mm above the tallest teeth on the chainring for clearance. Rotational position around the seat tube (Toe-in / Toe-out) makes a big difference too. We’ve found in CX, in the rough, the difference between the chain staying on perfectly and some weird issues with chains walking off (inside or outside) is front derailleur position. Please read the set-up directions at https://wickwerks.com/support/maxperformance Note the vertical and toe-in / toe-out instruction.
Make sure the derailleur motion stops are also set correctly. Again, see Front Derailleur Adjustment. Extra space between the derailleur cage outside surfaces and the chain should be minimized.
The chain should be as short as practical given the Big/Big condition. The tension if your rear derailleur allows you to set it, should be as tight as practical.
Chains can make a difference. Shimano and KMC higher-end chains tend to be just a little more flexible side-to-side than the stiffer chains like SRAM. If you’re using SRAM, you might try KMC. Likewise, if you’re using Shimano, you might try SRAM. Different bikes, with different geometries and various derailleurs will act differently.
Check the rest of the drive system for any potential issues — like too much drag in the system — perhaps with the rear derailleur pulleys?
Finally, read the section on cross chaining at WickWerks Support Site These rings should function fine when cross chaining, but as a general rule, it’s not a great idea — especially if your chain has a habit of trouble.
We always recommend a new chain with new chainrings.
The chain and the chainrings work together — and wear together. When new rings are paired with a used chain, the used chain — even if it is not worn out — will accelerate wear on the new chainrings. So, even if the old chain is not worn too much, it’s best to start with both items new.
To assist with that, WickWerks now carries KMC chains that work well with our chainrings. You can get both here together and be all set to go.
Good question. Maybe.
Replace the Chainring Bolts:
– If there is any damage on the threads or on the wrench locations.
– If excessive torque was required to loosen the bolts.
– If any corrosion or rust or other malady is visible.
– If the nut and bolt feel gritty when you are tightening them together.
– If the chainring bolts appear to be too short or too long for the application.
Basically, replace the chainring bolts if there is anything that would keep the bolt from functioning perfectly now, or in the future when they need to come off. Chainring bolts are relatively cheap insurance against aggravation and frustration later. WickWerks carries several types.
You may also need to replace bolts if you are changing from a double to a single front chainring or something like that. We carry bolts for most common applications.
Reuse the Chainring Bolts:
– If they look clean and “new-ish”.
– If there is no visible damage, corrosion or rust.
Chainring bolts made of Steel or Titanium will typically last longer and can be re-used more times than aluminum bolts. They also handle torque better. Aluminum bolts are lighter and come in more colors. If the bolts look good and function smoothly, there is usually no reason to replace them.
When reusing bolts, clean them well so there is no grit or other debris that may hinder proper tightening.
Over the years, SRAM has changed their chainring mounting from standard 5 bolt, to the now popular 22 style with a 5th hidden bolt. The change is not bad, but it does cause some confusion because they did not change the names. Now there are the “old” and “new” versions that are not compatible. Examples include Red (Red, Exogram, Quarq, pre-’12, …) and Force (with various mounting proliferations). Images below show differences with Sram 22, Exogram, and Quarq etc.:
Graphics change from year to year, and that’s not important. To select chainrings, the important things are:
– First, Does it have the hidden bolt?
– If so, does the hidden bolt thread into the crank arm?
– Second, What is the BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter)?
3 Styles of SRAM RED Cranks:
1. The LEFT image is a typical SRAM RED Crank before 2012.
– Look at your crank. If you see all 5 bolts as shown on the LEFT, you will need Standard chainrings.
2. The RIGHT image is the newer RED EXOGRAM or RED 22 Exogram Style Crank.
– Look at your crank. If you see 4 bolts like the image on the RIGHT (and if the 5th bolt screws into the back of the crank arm), you will need “SRAM 22” style chainrings with Exogram Style bolts.
3. The RIGHT image below (for Force) shows a crank where the 5th bolt is behind the arm, but attaches to an arm of the spider (not screwing into the actual crank arm). A Red QUARQ powermeter has chainring mounting like this Force crank on the RIGHT below.
2 Styles of SRAM Cranks:
(Force cranks used in the example, but also valid for Rival and other SRAM cranks.)
1. As above, the LEFT image is a typical SRAM Crank before 2013.
– If your crank has all 5 bolts visible as shown on the LEFT, you will need Standard WickWerks chainrings.
2. Like the Red, the RIGHT image is typical of newer Sram 22 (and Quarq) applications.
– If your crank has a bolt configuration like the one on the RIGHT (with the 5th bolt behind the crank arm – but not screwed into the crank arm), you will need “SRAM 22” style chainrings.
Note: There is an easy method for mounting WickWerks chainrings on the SRAM 22 and Quarq equipped cranks. Please see these mounting instructions.
Also see the individual WickWerks products pages for more information.
A very good question. The answer is almost any bicycle chain that matches your setup (ie. 9-speed, 10-speed, 11-speed, etc.).
WickWërks rings are not designed for a specific chain or specific derailleur. We have used many and our customers have probably used them all. That being said, Here are the rules of thumb:
- The best choice is often the chain designed for the rear cassette and rear derailleur. If you ride a SRAM rear, a consider a SRAM bicycle chain. Likewise the choice for Shimano.
- Use a chain that matches the number of speeds in the rear — ie. 9-Speed, 10-Speed, 11-Speed; and make sure the chainring specification is compatible with that number of speeds. Chainrings often cover a range of speeds.
- If you are sensitive to shift pressure and instant response (we’re talking tiny differences), the high-end Shimano and KMC are considered better because they are a little more flexible side to side and have a better internal finish (from what we’ve examined).
- Regardless of the brand, we recommend the higher-end chains because they are made, in our experience, to tighter tolerances and with better materials for a better overall performance.
- Proper cleaning and lubrication are more important than the specific brand or design of chain.
- Bicycle chains have inner link plates, and outer link plates. We are not keen on chains with lightening holes through the inner side plates. See the included photo. The holes shown here are OK because they are only through the outer plates. Holes in the chain plates collect debris, which can accelerate wear and other issues. We have traced inner link plate holes with contamination to chain-suck and wear problems, so caution you about it. The small weight advantage is often not worth the potential performance degradation. (That being said, it’s hard to find a good chain these days that does not have link plate holes.)
Chainrings are only one part of the bicycle drivetrain, and to get best performance, the “System” of components must work in harmony. The chainrings, the chain and the front derailleur must work in concert with the chosen rear cassette, derailleur, etc.. This includes proper bicycle chain length, crank and derailleur setup, shifting technique and more. These are not hard to accomplish, and once the bike is setup correct, shifting with WickWerks chainrings is second to none.
More Info On Bicycle Chain
For more info on bicycle chains and how interacting with chainrings, see the article on 11-Speed Rings and Chains.
If you need a chain, these KMC Chains shift well.
In a word, Yes.
Road: WickWërks rings perform very well with Shimano Di2 on Road applications.
Cyclocross Also Yes.
– Cyclocross History Note: In the past, we heard a couple reports of weird inadvertent shifting when conditions were very bumpy, or rough. Those reports were rare, and ONLY with earlier Di2 versions. With newer models and more refined programming, the later generations are fine. Keep your eyes out, and you’ll likely see Di2 with WickWërks rings in the mud as well as the dry — because many of our customers like that combination.
For Mountain Again Yes. Some of our customers use it with good results. Data is somewhat limited, but we have not heard of any problems.
There are 2 big differences:
– First, where and how they are made . . . . The Rotor 3D+ crank arms are CNC machined from solid (in Spain). The Rotor 3D-F is first forged (Taiwan), then machined.
– Second, because of where and how they are made, the price is significantly lower for the 3D-F.
Rotor cranks are compatible with almost every bicycle. They can be ordered in either 24mm and 30mm crank
spindles with a variety of bottom bracket (BB) styles — like BSA, 24mm eXo style, BB30, press fit and a variety of conversions and thread types.
In addition, Rotor BB’s are available with high grade steel bearings, or with ceramic bearings.
Chainring damage can fall in 2 categories:
1) Superficial or repairable damage.
Things that fall in this category are single tooth damage (such as hitting a rock with the chainring); and aesthetic damage such as scratching the surfaces. For this, we recommend a careful evaluation. In most cases, the damaged area can be filed down till smooth — which is most effectively done with the chainring removed from the bike so all sides can be felt and if needed filed till they are smooth and consistent with the original geometry.
If a tooth gets bent, first, try to bend it back carefully with a pair of pliers. If it breaks, or if the area around is rough, file off the areas up to outside where the chain normally goes. One tooth will be shorter than the others, but that usually won’t matter for one tooth.
2) The second category is functional damage:
If damage is significant enough that it effects chainring function, the rings should be replaced. For instance, if a chainring is bent (so it does not run true any longer), it will need to be replaced. Other things that fall in this category include repairs from above that might be significant. For instance, if several teeth need to be filed down significantly, the chain may not track properly on the ring. Basically, if function degrades, replace the chainrings.
So, if you’ve damaged a WickWerks chainring such that it needs replacement, please contact us and we’ll help you get new rings. We’re loyal to our customers that are loyal to us.
Noise from chain contact with the shift ramps is heard sometimes on road compact rings such as the 50/34 and 52/36 sets. It happens when riding in the small chainring up front and the smallest 1 or 2 cogs in the back.
For the road compact, the 16 tooth jump is pretty big. On almost every bike that has a 50/34 the chain will rub the big ring when running on the small ring in front and the smallest couple cogs of the cassette. I’ve ridden lots of bikes, and they all do it to some extent. Admittedly, WickWerks chainrings cause a little more concern in that condition because the ramps tap the chain, making more chain noise, (and sometimes wanting to shift) rather than just rubbing it like most others.
Ramps are what makes the shifting good, and avoiding the small small condition is the trade-off. A good rule of thumb for all bikes, regardless of the chain ring size, is to avoid “cross chaining” — the large chainring, large cog condition, and the small chain ring small cog condition as well. It puts extra stress and therefore extra wear on the chain and the sprockets – both front and rear.
In general, use the smaller 3/4 of the cassette with the large front ring, and the larger 3/4 of the cassette with the small ring. It’s just a general guideline and there are plenty of exceptions, but it will certainly avoid the chain noise and the added wear and tear.
For more info, read the Cross Chaining” feature.
Chainring life will depend on how and where the rings are used, as well as how well the drivetrain is maintained. Keep the chain and chainrings clean and well lubricated – and change the chain it when it wears – and the rings will last a long time.
Environment plays a significant role. Obviously when the rings are ridden in muddy or dusty conditions, the chain and rings will wear faster. Cyclocross and mountain bike applications tend to have shorter life than road bike applications for this reason.
Chains should be replaced when they “stretch” beyond the 0.75 mm mark as measured with a typical chain wear measurement tool. If proper care is given and chains are replaced as specified, typically the chainrings last 2 or 3 and sometimes 4 chains.
Chainrings can show signs of wear even pretty early in the life cycle. A few bad shifts, or a little mishap can cause damage to the black anodize and let the shiny aluminum show through. These are typical of used rings, but it does not mean the ring is worn out.
On the other hand, many rings are run far beyond when they are “worn out”. Seriously warn rings will show deep cupping in the areas between the teeth. On WickWerks rings, the anodize will disappear in the troughs between the teeth. These are indications, but the real test is function.
Often a chain that is long worn out will have grooved itself into the chainring in such a way that it all still works (mostly), but if the chain is replaced, the new one will not function well. This is a bad situation because it indicates replacement level wear on the chainrings, but also probably means the rear cassette needs to be replaced.
Summation: If the chain measures in spec, then until you feel a significant degradation in shift quality or some other aspect (such as chain skip), then keep riding them.
To get the most from your new WickWerks chainrings, yes, the shifting technique is just a little different. Several of our pro riders have expressed some weirdness about shifting when they first get the rings. However, when adjusted correctly, and once they change their thinking paradigm just a little, the shifts improve dramatically and they fall in love.
The main change in shifting technique is to move the shift lever faster. Move the shift lever quickly and deliberately. In comparison, with traditional rings, many riders move the shift lever slowly — we call it babying the shift. Shimano and others have taught us to do this for years, but with WickWerks it’s a little different. For best results, shift fast. Shift with intent, and the WickWerks rings will perform at their best for you.
The best possible shifting is a combination of the best shifting chain rings – WickWerks – and the proper adjustments and shift techniques. Do these things and your shifting will be great!
- Mount the crank and chainrings properly and in accordance with manufacture instructions — including BB spacing;
- Set the proper location of the Front Derailleur to the chainrings — 2-4 mm clearance;
- Position of the derailleur cage with respect to the big ring — usually straight (parallel) with the ring, though some bikes need a touch of toe-in or toe-out for chain line clearance or to get precise shifts;
- Set cable and stops so that: from the big ring position at rest, when the shift lever is pushed all the way, the front derailleur moves slightly outward maybe not quite a mm or so. (This slight over-travel will help assure quick shifts without throwing the chain over the top);
- Shift like you mean it. Shimano (and others) have trained us for years to baby the front shift. If you do that with these rings, you won’t see the fast shifting they are capable of. When you’re ready to shift, punch it and go. (We recommend you back off the power for the shift, of course, but with the fast shifting provided by WickWerks rings, you can get back on it sooner.)
For more on proper shifting, please also read “Proper Shifting and Technique with WickWerks Chainrings”
- Mount the crank and chainrings properly and in accordance with manufacture instructions — including BB spacing;
Anodized aluminum parts are common in the bicycle world. Anodize is a very thin coating on the aluminum to protect and/or beautify the parts. The most common anodize for machined parts is Type II or “Color Anodize”. This is the pretty coating on the attractive and colorful parts. Type I is also used, but more often on cast parts. Then there’s Type III (aka “Hardcoat” or “True Hard”) which is used more in military and industrial settings. Type III is called “Hard” because the surface is much harder and more wear resistant than the Type I or Type II. It’s more common for industrial and military because it does not color well, and is generally not as attractive.
Why does it matter?
At WickWerks we use the “Hardcoat” or “True Hard” for it’s amazing abrasion and wear resistance. It is a little more expensive, and it does not have color options (other than black), but it provides a superior level of protection intended to extend the life of the WickWerks chainrings. Read the full tech post about anodize, here.
Junior gear restrictions are part of USA Cycling requirements for junior racers (up to age 18) in cycling competition. The rules do NOT cover actual ratios or gear teeth, instead, the rules specify 26 feet as the maximum distance a bike may travel in one full rotation of the crank when in the highest gear.
Whether the gearing restrictions for juniors accomplishes the goals set out or not is definitely a debate, but most US sanctioned road and TT races have Junior gear requirements.
Read a full explanation HERE including notes about techniques and recommended equipment.
WickWerks offers three good ratio solutions that work well in meeting the USA Cycling Junior Gear Restrictions:
- First, Mid Gears Option, (which is a 44/34 gear ratio designed to be paired with a 12-?? cassette);
- Second, our 52/36 Road Compact option (to be paired with a “Juniors” 14-?? cassette).
- And, our 41/33 Junior Road Gears which is the True Juniors Solution. (to be paired with a normal 11-?? cassette – giving options for wheel swaps and all sorts of other advantages).
Please read our article “Meeting USA Cycling Junior Gearing Restrictions” for a lot more info, and ESPECIALLY, please read Juniors Solution as it outlines the true advantages of this combination of products we call “The Juniors Solution”. Another good source for juniors cycling info is Life on The Bike.
True Juniors Solution was officially announced at Interbike 2015, where it was called by some “Best of Show”.
SHIFT YOUR EXPECTATIONS
- First, Mid Gears Option, (which is a 44/34 gear ratio designed to be paired with a 12-?? cassette);
The “Fit Link” is a special adapter to allow a Front Derailleur to be mounted below a Braze-on Tab to accommodate smaller front chainrings. It works on most road bikes and many cross bikes equipped with a braze-on tab.
Fit Link Fits
To say it will or won’t work on a particular bike is difficult since braze-on tabs are not consistent nor is the placement of the tab on the bike frame predictable. The Fit Link itself fits almost all bikes with braze-on tabs, but the other side of the equation is how it will place the front derailleur with respect to your chainring choice, and maybe more important, your front derailleur choice.
The “Fit Link” works with most road bikes when used to accommodate chainrings that are significantly smaller than the stock ones the bike was made for. For instance, most road bikes have braze-on tabs set for use with a 53t, 52t, or 50t large chainring. In these cases, the Fit Link will NOT help accommodate a 46t (for instance), and most applications won’t accommodate a 44t. Many will work with a 42t chainring, and almost all will work with a 41t chainring — like our “Junior’s Solution” package.
Potential Problem Areas
1. The length of the front derailleur cage. As in this article, a shorter cage may be required if the end of the cage hits the bicycle chainstay. Only fitting it and trying it will reveal if this is a problem with your particular bike in your particular configuration. The nice thing is other derailleur options are available, so if yours is too long, we can help you get something shorter.
2. The flair of the frame below the braze-on tab. Most modern bike frames have a flair of the seat tube as it intersects the BB shell (which adds to stiffness. This is not a problem with the Fit Link usually, however, in rare cases where the bike frame is made to flair out immediately below the braze-on tab, there may be interference with mounting the front derailleur lower. Again, the only way to really know is to try it.
Thank you for visiting.
If you have questions not answered above, please ask using the Contact Us form. We will get back with you as quickly as practical — and we just might add your questions to the above Frequently Asked Questions list.
Other good sources of information about WickWerks products include the individual Products pages, some of the Technical Information Posts from the blog, sources listed on the Support Options page and WickWerks Support.